At first glance, the weather-beaten one-room home appeared as empty as the rest of the wooden cottages in Gnilische. But then the nasally drone of a small chainsaw out back revealed a flicker of life in the otherwise deserted village.

“I’m the only one permanently here after that 90-year-old babushka died in January,” said Yury Komissarov, 44, as he poached wood to heat his house, which shares a roof with the pig sty behind it.  

This corner of Russia is only about 30 miles from the European Union, with the border running through a lake where national hero Alexander Nevsky repulsed Teutonic knights in the Battle on the Ice in 1242. The average salary across the water in EU member Estonia is four…

To continue reading this article

Start a 30-day free trial for unlimited access to Premium articles

• Unlimited access to Premium articles 
• Subscriber-only events and experiences
• Cancel any time

Free for 30 days

then only £2 per week

Try Premium

Save 25% with an annual subscription

Just £75 per year

 

Save now

Register for free and access one Premium article per week

Register

Only subscribers have unlimited access to Premium articles.Register for free to continue reading this article
RegisterOr unlock all Premium articles.
Free for 30 days, then just £1 per week
Start trial
Save 40% when you pay annually.
View all subscription options  |
Already have an account? Login